A bathroom vanity is bought on three numbers: width, depth and the height of your waste pipe. Get those right and almost any vanity will work. Get the waste height wrong and a perfectly good cabinet will not sit flat against the wall — which is the single most common reason a vanity goes back.
Measuring: the four numbers that matter
- Available width. Measure the wall, then subtract clearance at each end. A vanity pushed hard against a side wall makes the door or drawer on that side awkward to open, and impossible if there is a corner.
- Available depth. Stand where the vanity will go and check you can still pass. In a narrow bathroom a deep cabinet turns a corridor into a squeeze. Our range runs from slim 150 mm counters up to 490–500 mm deep cabinets, and the difference underfoot is considerable.
- Waste pipe height and position, measured from finished floor to the centre of the pipe. This decides whether a wall-hung unit can sit where you want it.
- Water inlet positions. Note how far they are from the wall and from each other.
What the widths suit
| Width | Suits | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 450–500 mm | Powder rooms, guest bathrooms, tight corners | Basin is small; little counter space beside the tap |
| 600–610 mm | The standard single bathroom. Fits most Indian flats comfortably. | Storage is modest but usable |
| 800–810 mm | Main bathrooms with room to spare. The best balance of basin and storage. | Needs a genuinely clear 900 mm of wall |
| 1000–1200 mm | Master bathrooms, and double-basin layouts at the top end | Heavy — wall strength and fixings become the deciding factor |
Wall-hung or floor-standing
Wall-hung leaves the floor clear underneath, which makes a small bathroom read as larger and makes mopping trivial. The catch is that the wall carries everything — the cabinet, the basin, the water in it and anything leaning on it. That is fine on solid brick or concrete. On a hollow block or a stud partition it needs proper anchors and, ideally, a batten spanning two studs.
Floor-standing — what we list as floor-height or tall units — puts the load on the floor instead. It is the safer choice on a questionable wall, it usually offers more storage, and it hides the plumbing completely. It also collects water at the base and makes cleaning underneath impossible.
Tap it. A solid ring means brick or concrete and you can hang almost anything. A hollow sound means a block or partition wall, and a 1000 mm vanity full of water is a serious load to hang on one.
Materials, and which survives an Indian bathroom
Every cabinet in this range is built to live in permanent humidity. They differ in how.
- PVC. Waterproof throughout rather than sealed on the surface, so standing water and splashing do nothing to it. The mainstream choice, and the reason most of our range is built from it.
- Aluminium PVC. A PVC body with aluminium framing — rust-proof, stiffer than PVC alone, and better at holding its shape on wider units.
- HDHMR. High-density moisture-resistant board. Denser and more solid to handle than PVC, takes fixings better, and holds a finish well. It resists moisture rather than being immune to it, so edges and cut-outs must stay sealed.
- Stainless steel. The most durable carcass available and effectively immune to moisture. Heavier and dearer.
- Sintered marble (the counter, not the cabinet). A dense engineered stone that is non-porous, resists staining and takes a matt or gloss finish. It is what you want under a tap, where real marble would etch and laminate would eventually lift.
The tap hole question
This catches people out often enough to deserve its own section. A vanity counter is made either with a tap hole or without, and they are not interchangeable after the fact.
- With a tap hole — for a deck-mounted tap that stands on the counter behind the basin. The usual arrangement.
- Without a tap hole — for a wall-mounted tap or wall spout. Cleaner to look at, easier to wipe around, and it needs the water supply brought up inside the wall at the right height before tiling.
We list some models in both forms for exactly this reason. Decide which tap you want before you order the vanity, because drilling sintered marble on site is not something to attempt.
Mirrors: what the options actually do
| Type | What it gives you |
|---|---|
| Plain mirror | Cheapest and thinnest. Needs good ceiling light to be useful for shaving or make-up. |
| LED mirror | Light from the mirror itself, which lands on your face instead of the top of your head. A real improvement, not a gimmick. |
| 3-colour LED | Switches between warm, neutral and cool. Useful if you apply make-up and want to judge it in daylight tone. |
| Anti-fog | A heated pad that keeps a patch clear after a hot shower. Worth it in a bathroom with poor ventilation. |
| Sensor LED | Wave or touch to switch. Convenient with wet hands. |
| Mirror cabinet | Storage behind the glass. The single best way to get clutter off a small counter. |
Concealed, at the right height, installed before tiling. A trailing cable down the wall to a socket ruins the look and is not a good idea in a wet room.
Installing a bathroom vanity
A competent plumber will do this in a morning. The sequence matters more than the skill.
Before tiling
- Fix the vanity height and mark it. Counter top at 800–850 mm from finished floor suits most adults. Lower it for a household of shorter people; it is your bathroom, not a standard.
- Set the waste pipe to suit the vanity you have bought, using its drawing. On a wall-hung unit the waste usually needs to exit the wall, not the floor, and the height is unforgiving.
- Bring the water supply to the right place — up the wall for a wall-mounted tap, or to the standard position for a deck tap.
- Run the mirror's power point, concealed, behind where the mirror will sit.
Fitting
- Mark a level line across the wall at cabinet height and work from it. Bathroom floors are rarely level and measuring up from the floor will put the unit out.
- Use the right anchors for the wall you actually have. Standard plastic plugs in a hollow block will pull out. Use sleeve or toggle anchors, or fix a timber batten across two solid points and hang the unit from that.
- Dry-fit the cabinet and check the plumbing clears the back panel before you drill anything. A bottle trap fouling the back of a cabinet is the classic late discovery.
- Fit the counter and basin, then the tap, then connect. Tightening a tap with the basin already plumbed is needlessly difficult.
- Test with the cabinet empty. Run both taps, fill the basin, release it, and watch the trap and every joint. Do this before you seal and before you load the shelves.
- Silicone the counter to the wall last, with a sanitary-grade sealant. Leave the front edge unsealed so any leak shows itself rather than pooling inside the cabinet.
It will need clearing one day. A vanity built so the trap can only be reached by removing the basin turns a ten-minute job into an afternoon.
Your pre-order checklist
- Wall width measured, with clearance at both ends.
- Depth checked against how much walking room the bathroom has.
- Waste pipe height and position noted from finished floor.
- Wall tapped — solid or hollow — before choosing wall-hung.
- Tap decided, so you order the counter with or without a tap hole.
- Power point planned behind the mirror if it is lit.
Our bathroom vanities run from around ₹7,700 to ₹36,100, in widths from 450 mm to 1200 mm, in PVC, aluminium PVC, HDHMR, stainless steel and sintered marble, with plain, LED, anti-fog and mirror-cabinet options. Send us your wall width and waste height and we will tell you which units will fit.